By Alan Lucas, SY Soleares
From the first half of the last century,
when crossing oceans in small boats made headline news, there
came a plethora of books such as Sailing all Seas in the Idle
Hour by Dwight Long, The Fight of the Firecrest by Alain
Gerbault and, of course, the classic that started it all near
the turn of the century, Sailing Alone Around the World
by Joshua Slocum. Except for proving that small-boat voyaging
was possible without the hi-tech trappings of today, their achievements
were low-key by today's standards. However, as snap-shots of
a recent past, their books give wonderful insights into how cruising
was in those days.
Dwight Long's book of the 1930s is a
good example. His Idle Hour was a gaff-headed ketch of
thirty-two feet that sailed from Seattle late 1934 and reached
Sydney a couple of years later to anchor in Watsons Bay for customs
clearance. After basic clearance, final pratique was carried
out in Rushcutters Bay, his ketch being escorted up-harbour by
dozens of welcoming motorboats full of excited onlookers. The
buzz of public acceptance aside, it seems that form-filling was
more complex than it is now, Dwight referring to - "Square
yards of forms: all that would have been required for a twenty
thousand ton liner such as the Strathnaver or Strathaird. I wonder
why Australia doesn't run short of paper".
His description of our world-famous 18-footers
reminds us of their extraordinary statistics, referring as he
does to 14-foot bowsprits, 30-foot booms, 25-foot telescoping
poles for balloon jibs and crews of twelve. He marvelled that
six ferries, all packed with enthusiasts, followed races contested
by a fleet of 30-odd boats sailing an eleven-mile course. The
day in question was squally with more than half the fleet succumbing
to strong gusts that collectively tipped 150 men into the harbour.
According to Dwight, "All the crews jumped into their sails,
for the harbour is full of sharks, and only by swimming inside
the canvas were they safe". The din of whistles, sirens
and shouting at the finishing line reminded him of Armistice
Day, 1918.
Typical of the days when voyaging yachts
were far and few between, the enthusiastic generosity of the
people and the favours offered by authorities were impressive:
Captain Stringer of the Sydney Harbour Board, for example, allowed
him to berth at a public facility to open his boat for public
inspection. And Commander Stevens, of the Royal Navy Reserve
told Dwight "his Base was at his disposal".
Innocent of their more sinister motives
just a year or so before the outbreak of World War 11, Dwight
refers to Japanese sampans fishing along the Great Barrier Reef.
At long Island in the Whitsunday Group, he was shown 'acres and
acres of tree stumps' by the island manager, Mr Tronson, who
told him the Japanese use the timber to smoke-cure beche-de-mer
and confirmed that they were a common sight in the area. It has
long since been realised that Japanese 'fishing' in those days
was probably as much about spying as it was about feeding the
masses.
At Hayman Island, Dwight fell in with
a British film company busily making a full-length movie with
famous author and introducer of game fishing to Australia, Zane
Grey in the leading role. Another star was Colonna, a former
grand opera singer who had sung at Covent Gardens. Zane Grey
played the part of a fanatical missionary and a group of aborigines
in full war paint armed with spears performed a corroboree for
the film.
As any history buff knows, the past comes
alive when two writers refer to each other but each spin different
yarns about the same incident. This was the case in C. Monckton's
book, Some Experiences of a New Guinea Resident Magistrate and
Captain Joshua Slocum's book, Sailing Alone Around the World.
It appears the two men met off Port Macquarie, Monckton aboard
an ex-racing yacht named Guinevere that he had just bought in
Sydney for use in New Guinea waters, and Slocum on his beloved
Spray.
Slocum refers to Monckton's yacht pseudonymously
as Akbar and describes being hailed by her crew as he sailed
past. Akbar, Slocum says, was anchored offshore with mainsail
and jigger 'blown to ribbons' and 'her rigging flew at loose
ends'. "Up anchor", Slocum called, "and let me
tow you into Port Macquarie", to which the crew of Guinevvere,
nee Akbar, declined the offer, saying "Report us with sails
blown away, and that we don't care a dash and are not afraid".
Monckton's story of the same incident
is different. After bad weather north of Sydney and some concerns
regarding rig and pumps, he records only that, "At last
we made Port Macquarie, telling a steamer that approached and
wanted to tow us, to go to the devil, for we had awful visions
before our eyes of claims for salvage". Guinevere then hailed
the port's tug "and we were soon safely anchored in the
river". A few paragraphs later, after leaving Port Macquarie,
Monckton declares that, "We fell in on the way with the
Spray and Captain Slocum, who hung on to us one night while he
slept".
So who's telling the truth? Slocum, previously
a captain of square rigged ships and then a lone hander, is scarcely
going to 'hang on' to another vessels at sea while he sleeps.
Yet Monkton had sailed pearling luggers and mother ships around
New Guinea so it might be equally presumed he would not lie about
a serious incident off Port Macquarie. I fear the truth of this
remarkable moment must remain in limbo.
Returning to Dwight Long's Sailing all
Seas in the Idle Hour, since leaving Sydney he had not called
into any ports until Townsville, which, surprisingly, he compared
to Hilo, Hawaii, "with its main street lined with coconut
palms and a cosmopolitan population including Malays, Japanese,
Chinese and aborigines sauntering along under the broad awnings
and palms". It strikes me that good old Oz was more integrated
then than it is now.
Dwight then sailed to Palm Island, which
he described as "a compound for unruly aborigines of the
great northern wastes of Australia" and that neighbouring
Fantome Island (which he misspelt 'Fathom') "is used to
harbour aborigines afflicted with various diseases". This
is of particular interest to me because thirty-three years later,
in 1971, as Palm Island's skipper, I was involved in the closure
of Fantome's leper colony when authorities decided to place remnant
patients in Palm Island Hospital. My most vivid memory is of
my crew helping patients aboard from the workboat then rigging
a cargo sling to bring aboard the seriously afflicted, one being
an elderly lady who was blinded by the disease with hands and
feet digit-less stumps. The only bright side of that sad event
was that it might have been the last leper colony in Australia
to close its doors, a stark reminder of how recently society
beat that ghastly disease.
Old cruising books remind us how special
long-distance sailors were in the days before fibreglass. By
the mid 1960s, when production-line fibreglass boats were rolling
out by the hundreds every year, allowing dreamers to become instant
doers, all that changed. Suddenly we were a dime a dozen.
To those who enjoy such literature, there
is no finer pastime than browsing second-hand bookshops or watching
for classic reprints. They take the reader into an era that seems
positively ancient yet much of it was within one person's lifespan.
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